Read your labels… What ingredients are in your skincare?
As dermal clinicians, we have extensive experience and training in understanding which skincare ingredients have a positive impact on the skin and give the best results for different skin types and skin problems. However, there are also chemical additives in many products that can be harmful to both skin cells and the rest of your body when allowed to accumulate over time. A compelling scientific study showed that women absorb more than 3kg of chemicals from cosmetics and toiletries each year.
We are all keen to retain our youthful looking skin and may use many products within our grasp that claim to target signs of aging and nourish our skin.
Have you ever thought what ingredients are in the readily available products you use?
Do you know which ingredients are ones you should avoid?
Which ones are harmful?
It’s important to read the labels. The cosmetic industry is rapidly growing, with continued development of varying chemicals, additives and active ingredients, rising to meet the needs of social and economic demands in personal care items, namely cosmetics.
It is thought that over one thousand chemicals have been associated with a disruption to the endocrine system (namely our hormones) becoming known as endocrine disruptors (ED). Science has discovered an association between the endocrine system and toxicity from chemical compounds.
Unfortunately, the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ are used too loosely in the cosmetic industry. Natural is not always best, and it is important to understand that natural ingredients can be extremely harmful. Arsenic, for example, is 100 percent natural but less than 1/8th of a teaspoon can be fatal, and the beautiful oleander shrub can be organically grown but may result in cardiac arrest if the leaves or flowers are ingested!
Alarmingly some ingredients such as Pthalates are not under mandatory labeling and therefore do not have to be listed upon the labels. Pthalates have been linked to hormone disruption and toxicity within the body systems. The main pthalate commonly used in cosmetics is diethyl phthalate (DEP).
Other common ingredients are Parabens, these are included to prevent the manifestation of bacteria in in skincare, but commonly found to instigate allergy and skin irritation.
As a brief overview, we advise customers to avoid the following ingredients on their cosmetic products:
- Paraben preservatives
- Artificial colour (FD&C dyes)
- Artificial fragrance
- Phthalates
- SLS and other foaming sulfates
- PEG
- Propylene glycol
- Isopropyl alcohol
For further information please review the table attached at the end of this blog article as a guide to help you compare the listed ingredients found in cosmetics and care items.
It is good to learn natural products are not always best. Clean science formulating uses the very best of both science and nature in synergy. Harnessing the positive attributes from both will result in a product that produces the best results with the highest safety profile.
Here at Cosmetic Laser Medical Centre we stock Synergie Skin which is committed to clean science, a practice that does not include the use of unsafe ingredients. Proudly manufactured here in Victoria.
If you are unsure about the ingredients on the products you currently use, a dermal therapist at Cosmetic and Laser would be happy to help.
– Chevonne & Lauren
INGREDIENTS TO AVOID IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS
SLS/SODIUM LAURYL SULPHATE
Uses in skin products:
- Detergent (foaming agent)
- Base for cleansers, liquid soaps, shampoo, bubble bath
Possible side effects:
- Skin and scalp rash and irritation
- Oil and moisture loss
- Eye irritation
- Forms carcinogenic nitrates
- Absorbed in bloodstream
- Greater uptake in rapidly dividing cells and young tissues (e.g. children)
- Retained in organs (brains, heart, liver, eyes)
PROPYLENE GLYCOL
Uses in skin products:
- Emollient (provides ‘slip’)
- Solvent
- Viscosity decreaser
- Penetration enhancer
Possible side effects:
- Eye/skin irritant
- Rapid skin penetration which may cause brain, liver, kidney abnormalities (EPA requires workers to use protective clothing)
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (PETROLEUM DERIVED)
Uses in skin products:
- Solvent
- Skin dehydrator
Possible side effects:
- Skin dryness/irritation
- Penetration enhancer of undesirable ingredients
- Toxic vapours if excess inhaled
- Headaches
- Nausea
MEA. DEA, TEA (MONOETHANOLAMINE/DIETHANOLAMINE/TRIETHANOLOAMINE)
Uses in skin products:
- pH controller
- Foam enhancer
Possible side effects:
- Possibility of some forms of cancer
- Skin irritant
PEG (POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL)
Uses in skin products:
- Skin lubricant
- Penetration enhancer
- Emulsifier in many skin products
Possible side effects:
- Produces carcinogens
- Irritation to damaged skin
- Increases penetration of undesirable ingredients
- Possible irritation from impurities
MINERAL OIL/PETROLATUM (E.G. BABY OIL)
Uses in skin products:
- Gives the ‘illusion’ of moisturising due to oily nature but sits on surface only
- Petroleum derived occlusive
Possible side effects:
- Pore clogging
- Irritation and allergy due to possible contaminants from petroleum refining
- May impair natural skin processes (‘cling wrap’ effect) and prevent nutrient absorption/toxin release
SYNTHETIC COLOUR (LOOK FOR D&C or FD&C Dyes)
Uses in skin products:
- Appearance only- no functional benefit
Possible side effects:
- May form carcinogens in the body (e.g. FD&C Red 40 linked to breast cancer)
- Allergy
- Skin irritant
- Can penetrate skin and carry impurities due to particle size
SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCE (LOOK FOR ‘FRAGRANCE 1/- NUMBER’ OR ‘PARFUM 1/- NUMBER’)
Uses in skin products:
- No functional skin benefit
- It may take a mixture of greater than 200 artificial chemicals to achieve a pleasant fragrance.
Possible side effects:
- Forms carcinogens in the body
- Allergy and irritation
- Photosensitivity
- Nausea
- Headaches (also due to inhaled vapour)
PARABENS AND OTHER ARTIFICALPRESERVATIVES
Examples
- Parabens (methyl, ethyl and propyl)
- MDM Hydantoin (formaldehyde)
- Urea (Imidozlidinyl Urea or Germa)
- Methyl Isothiazoline
- Methyal Chloroisothiazolieone
- Phthalates
Uses in skin products
- Prevents microbial contamination in skincare
Possible side effects:
- Respiratory irritation (asthma trigger)
- Allergy and skin irritation
- Forms carcinogens
- Artificial preservatives release ‘formaldehyde donors’ and forms carcinogens
PTHALATES
Examples:
- Dibutylphthalate (DBP)
- Dimethylphthalate (DMP)
- Diethylphthalate (DEP)
*Pthalates are not mandatory to be list on labels as part of artificial fragrance ingredients Dibutyl phthalate is banner in EU.
Uses in skin products:
- Flexible film formers (hairspray)
- Solvents
- Perfume fixatives
Possible side effects:
- Hormone distruptor
- Organ and system toxicity
- Prenatal exposure linked to decreased male fertility and ADHD
CHEMICAL ABSORBING SUNSCREENS (ALSO CALLED ORGANIC SUNSREENS)
*SUNBLOCK IS DIFFERENT*SUN PROTECTION IS IMPORTANT*
Examples:
- Octyl Methoxycinnamate
- Oxybenzone
- Butyl Menthoxydibenzoylmenthane
- Octylcrylene
- Ostisalate
- Oxybenzone
- Homosalate
- PABA
Uses in skin products:
UVA and UVB sun protection
Possible side effects:
- Hormone disruptors
- Early puberty
- Estrogenic effect on tumours
- Low fertility
- May contribute to breast and prostate cancer